A Taste of Home: Traditional Chicken and Pastry from the North Carolina Swamps
- Anastasia Oxendine
- Mar 21
- 4 min read
It’s Not a Dumpling: The Soul of Chicken and Pastry
If you walk into a kitchen in southeastern North Carolina and call the steaming pot on the stove "chicken and dumplings," you might get a polite but firm correction. To the outside world, the distinction might seem small, but to those of us raised on these red-clay lands, the difference is everything.
Dumplings are often thick, leavened "drops" of dough balls that sit on top of a stew like fluffy clouds. They are lovely, but they aren't pastry. In southeast NC, they are usually made with cornmeal and flour. Pastry is made with flour and fat and cut into thin strips.
Traditional Pastry is an exercise in patience and precision. It is unleavened, rolled thin enough to see the shadow of your hand through it, and cut into wide, sturdy ribbons. When it hits that boiling chicken "liquor," it doesn't puff up; it transforms. It becomes "slick"—a term we use to describe that perfect, silky texture that holds its shape while melting in your mouth.
Growing up, Chicken and Pastry was the language of community. It was the dish that filled the long tables at family reunions and the stovetops of church social halls. It’s a meal that requires you to slow down. You can’t rush the broth, and you certainly can’t rush the roll of the dough.
As a food scientist, I can tell you the chemistry of why we use hot broth to scald the flour. As a homesteader, I can tell you why using the whole heritage bird matters. But as a daughter of this tradition, I can tell you that the most important ingredient is the memory of the women who taught us exactly when to "drop" and—most importantly—when to leave the spoon alone.
Let’s step into the kitchen and honor the "slick" style.
In southeastern North Carolina, particularly within Lumbee culture, "Chicken and Pastry" (never to be called "dumplings"!) is more than just a meal—it’s a centerpiece for community, family gatherings, and Sunday dinners.
Unlike the fluffy, biscuit-like drops found in other regions, our pastry is rolled thin, cut into wide strips, and simmered until it reaches a silky, "slick" consistency. This is a dish that honors the whole bird and the patience of the cook.
The Secret to Authentic Chicken and Pastry
The soul of this dish lies in two things: a rich, yellow broth and pastry that doesn't fall apart. Because we are using the traditional method, we start with a whole chicken to ensure the broth has the depth and "fat" required to flavor the pastry.
The Ingredients
1 Whole Chicken (4–5 lbs): Heritage or home-raised birds provide the best flavor.
2 cups All-Purpose Flour: Plus extra for your rolling surface.
2 Tbsp cup Shortening or Lard: For that traditional, tender bite.
1 to 1 ½ cups water: Warm or room temperature
Salt and Black Pepper: A Lumbee kitchen doesn't skimp on the salt & pepper!
The Step-by-Step Method
1. The Broth is Everything
Place your whole chicken in a large pot and cover with water. Add a pinch of salt and plenty of black pepper. Simmer until the meat is falling off the bone.
Pro-Tip: Once cooked, remove the chicken to cool and debone.
2. Mixing the "Slick" Pastry
While the chicken cools, place your flour in a large bowl. Cut in the shortening until it looks like fine crumbs. Slowly add the warm water, stirring until a stiff dough forms.
The Science: Using warm water instead of cold water partially "cooks" the flour, which helps the pastry stay firm and slick rather than turning into mush.
3. The Roll and Cut
Generously flour your counter. Roll the dough out until it is very thin—about 1/8 inch. Cut into wide strips (about 2 inches wide).
4. The "Drop"
Bring your broth back to a rolling boil. Drop the pastry strips in one by one. Do not stir! If you stir, you’ll break the pastry. Instead, gently push the pastry down into the broth. Stop dropping once your broth stops boiling. When the broth returns to boiling, drop more strips. Keep doing this until you have dropped all your pastry strips. Turn your pastry down to low.
5. The Finish
Pick the meat off your cooled chicken, discarding the skin and bones.I like to put mine back into the pot to add more flavor to the pastry. Once the pastry is tender and the broth has thickened into a creamy gravy (usually 15–20 minutes), gently fold the chicken pieces back in. Simmer until you finish cooking the rest of the meal.
Serving the Tradition
Chicken and Pastry is traditionally served with a side of collard greens, some chicken salad and perhaps a slice of "lacy" cornbread to soak up that extra gravy. It’s a heavy, comforting meal that tastes even better the next day.
Why This Fits Our Homestead
When we process our chickens the traditional way, we use every part of the bird. Making pastry is the ultimate way to respect that harvest. It’s a slow-food process that connects us to the generations of women who stood over these same pots in southeastern North Carolina.
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1
The Pastry
Pastry Flour: For a fluffier, drop-biscuit-style pastry, use self-rising flour. For the more traditional, thin, and slick Lumbee pastry, use all-purpose flour.
2
For Richer Flavor!
Flavor Boost: For richer flavor, boil the chicken with a stalk of celery and a couple of peeled carrots, removing them before adding the pastry. Broth can be added to pastry dough for more flavor in the pastry.
Notes
1
Boil the Chicken: Place the whole chicken, and your preferred seasonings in a large pot. Cover with water and bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer for about 1 hour, or until the chicken is tender and falls easily from the bone.
2
Shred the Meat: Remove the chicken and set aside to cool slightly. Strain the broth and set it back on the stove. Once cool enough to handle, shred the chicken meat from the bone and discard the skin and bones
3
Prepare the Pastry: In a large bowl, mix together the flour and salt. Cut in the shortening or lard using a fork until the mixture resembles coarse crumbs.
4
Form the Dough: Gradually add just enough water to form a firm, workable dough. Do not overmix.
5
Roll and Cut: Divide the dough into a few portions. On a lightly floured surface, roll each portion very thinly. Use a knife or pizza cutter to cut the dough into 1-inch wide strips (your pastry).
6
Simmer and Serve: Return the shredded chicken and the pastry strips to the pot of broth. Bring to a rolling boil, then immediately reduce the heat to a low simmer. Cook for about 15-20 minutes, stirring gently and occasionally, until the pastry is tender and the liquid has thickened slightly.
7
Serve immediately in bowls, ensuring each serving gets plenty of broth and tender pastry.
Instructions
Flour
Salt
Warm Water
Shortening or lard
Pastry
1 whole chicken
salt
pepper
poultry seasoning (optional)
Chicken
Chicken N Pastry
Anastasia Oxendine
Traditional Pastry is an exercise in patience and precision. It is unleavened, rolled thin enough to see the shadow of your hand through it, and cut into wide, sturdy ribbons. When it hits that boiling chicken "liquor," it doesn't puff up; it transforms. It becomes "slick"—a term we use to describe that perfect, silky texture that holds its shape while melting in your mouth.
Servings :
5+ Servings
Calories:
Prep Time
20 min
Cooking Time
45 min
Rest Time
15 min
Total Time
1 hour 30 min
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